Cross the river for authentic Thai flavours from Bangkok Bold Kitchen
- 11 Aug 2017 at 04:00
- WRITER: PORNCHAI SEREEMONGKONPOL
Candied shrimps and sour fruits salad.
The setting: Bangkok Bold is a name that doesn't need much of an introduction. Well-known for its cooking class and chef's table experience at its original branch on Phra Sumen Road, Bangkok Bold opened a second outlet called Bangkok Bold Kitchen about six months ago on the Thon Buri side. It is positioned differently, being a restaurant that welcomes walk-in customers on top of hosting a chef's table and cooking classes in an intimate setting.
The interior is very Thai but not in the showy way that involves kinnaree statues or waiting staff in silk uniforms. The spacious dining area feels homely, like an old school Thai restaurant with a vintage vibe. A smaller room tucked into one corner is reserved for the chef's table and cooking classes. If you're an aspiring food pornographer, may we suggest a table lit with natural light next to the floor-to-ceiling windows with a view of the trees on the outside. The open-floor setup is fitting for a meal with friends or family but don't expect much privacy here.
A look through the menu not only reveals the usual favourites but also recipes that you probably haven't heard of before. We recommend avoiding the go-to Thai dishes and getting out of your eating comfort zone here. Bangkok Bold won't disappoint you.
Candied shrimps and sour fruits salad (B170++) or yum kung kaew is a savoury symphony and we don't use that description lightly. All the ingredients within this dish worked together deliciously, giving many textures and flavours in every mouthful. The shrimps weren't the shrivelled ones you find in som tum either. They were somewhat meaty and complemented by the refreshing sensations from pomelo, mango and pineapple.
There are many tasty twirls to be had with the Spicy rice noodle salad with grilled pork neck (B170). Crisp veggies went well with the wet-with-plara slender threads of kanom jeen. It isn't outright spicy but when the heat builds up, you can add the gooey yolk from the soft-boiled egg as buffer.
Caramelised pork and peanut stuffed egg crepe.
Served with ajard dip, Caramelised pork and peanut stuffed egg crepe (B150) or kanom bueang kai muan is another appetiser you should try. The stuffing -- which itself is a complex combo of minced pork, shallots, coconut and more -- inside thin and fluffy egg exploded with so much flavour and texture.
Lotus stems somtum platter (B250) comes with fried chicken and grilled pork neck. The lotus stems gave an interesting sensation, being audibly crunchy and juicy all at once. The chicken had crispy skin and moist meat inside while the grilled pork was juicy with the right amount of fat.
Steamed turmeric marinated snake head with mushroom relish (B290) was the most impressive dish we tried during our visit. It's like a whole meal packed into one dish. You'll get a big chunk of snake head with spicy and aromatic soup and a variety of tender veggies. The fish should impress you further because it had some tasty and glutinous rice stuffed inside of it. It would have received a perfect score, had it been served in a bowl with the light yet flavourful soup filled to the brim.
Nhoi Ouypornchaisakul, Bangkok Bold's co-owner and chef, was behind the success of many hotel and standalone restaurants before opening the first Bangkok Bold in 2014. She, along with the other two co-owners, have searched extensively for authentic and local Thai recipes. This resulted in the lesser known Thai dishes that you won't usually come by (but definitely should try). If Thon Buri isn't your turf, look for Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel which you can easily spot while crossing the Chao Phraya via Krung Thep Bridge. Riverside Plaza where Bangkok Bold Kitchen is located is the building in front of the hotel.
The restaurant has several promos. A full meal for two is on offer at B1,999 while a lunch set with a drink is available at B119. Until the end of August, dine with your mum and for every B500 spent you'll get a B100 voucher. The price to enjoy the chef's table experience for a minimum of four people is B2,500 per person but you must book two days in advance.
Value & Verdict
Honestly, we can't find any flaws with Bangkok Bold Kitchen. We're also surprised that the asking price is reasonable too, given the high quality. Existing fans of Bangkok Bold should definitely give it a try. If you're just learning about them right now, we think you should check it out too if you love Thai food. Definitely worth crossing the river for.
Steamed turmeric marinated snake head with mushroom relish.
Spicy rice noodle salad with grilled pork neck.
Bangkok Bold Kitchen
Riverside Plaza, 2/F, Charoen Nakhon Road